Header Ads Widget

Ticker

6/recent/ticker-posts

Nurturing the Next Fashion Leaders - The New York Times

LinaPaseddu Kasım 01, 2021

Nurturing the Next Fashion Leaders - The New York Times

Nurturing the Next Fashion Leaders - The New York Times

Posted: 22 Jan 2021 02:00 AM PST

With the New York charity circuit on hiatus, here is how some philanthropists and society figures are spending their time and resources during the pandemic.

Age: 40

Occupation: fashion designer, artist, musician, entrepreneur

Favorite charities: Fashion Scholarship Fund; No Negativity

Where have you been sheltering?

I've been spending most of my time in my studio on the North Side of Chicago. Digital conferencing has had to replace flying all over the world, so I've created space where I can work on fashion, my artwork and my music — a multipurpose studio that I've come to love.

What does it look like?

It's a beautiful mess, a sort of open space that reflects the cross-disciplinary aspects of my practice.

You are a board member of the Fashion Scholarship Fund, which supports the next generation of industry leaders. What do we owe them?

We owe a complete restructuring and rethinking of our assumptions. In the past, hiring was based on accreditation: If you went to this or that school, or came from this or that background, we could give you a position. Now we need now to open our doors to a generation that is newly empowered, that comes with social media tools, with concepts, ideas and diverse opinions, not just accreditation and ambition.

You have mentored young Black and brown people. What has that taught you?

It's a different world from the one I've experienced. The turbulence of the past year has put things — systemic racism, unconscious bias — on our front step, not in our backyard.

Your fans wait in long lines to buy your designs. Post-pandemic, will those lines have a future?

I don't think so. If you are measuring the success of something by a line, that's a misstep. The line is a side effect of my practice, not the point. The point is to make something that is worthy of existing.

What do you do for enjoyment?

I'm not the type to sit on a couch and watch a film. I'm passionate now about my label, Off-White. More than a purely fashion label, it's a generational platform for highlighting and sharing stories. We'll be replacing a fashion show with an online television station that we plan to launch during fashion week.

Age: 50

Occupation: creative director, Estée Lauder Companies

Favorite Charities: God's Love We Deliver, Mount Sinai Medical Center Foundation, Estée Lauder Breast Cancer Campaign

Where have you been sheltering?

I just came out to Westhampton. We've been traveling between here and our apartment on the Upper East Side of Manhattan for months and months. The pandemic has meant a complete adjustment. On the positive side, there is time for the family and the things that we care about.

Such as what?

We have family meals and talks where our sons, Jack and Will, can communicate their concerns and fears. We celebrated the New Year with my family.

What has been most troubling?

In the beginning there was the fear. Every package, every envelope that arrived, every trip to the store with masks and gloves — all these things were so disturbing. Even now when I walk in my neighborhood, I see so many stores for rent. So much is empty. It's heartbreaking.

How are you coping?

I'm not comfortable being outside or being with more than a few people. I've been careful. I follow the rules; I wear a mask. But then I've always followed the rules. I was never the girl who dyed her hair pink. I've never worn black nail polish.

You've published a book on entertaining. Have your rules evolved?

Entertaining to me has always been partly about taking time for yourself. When I do invite guests, I have no more than 10 people, close family and friends. We have lot of dinners in our kitchen. Things are more casual, and they're multigenerational. I've learned to cook. I learned from Ina Garten on Instagram how to make a roast chicken, and now I make that for my boys.

Have you found other upsides to lockdown?

This pause has helped me look at different ways of being creative. I'm following travel accounts on Instagram and walking constantly. I walk alone. It's the one thing that allows me an escape. Some of my best ideas come from those walks. I've found I'm a New Yorker at heart. There is nothing I love more than a pretzel from a truck.

Age: 61

Occupation: president of the Ford Foundation

Favorite charities: N.A.A.C.P. Legal Defense Fund; President's Council on Disability Inclusion in Philanthropy

Where have you been sheltering?

I am renovating a new apartment on the Upper East Side, so I've been staying at a friend's apartment nearby. The renovation started before Covid, and I'm still homeless. I'm living by myself with Mary Lou, my wonderful English bulldog.

Has lockdown been tough?

I'm an avowed extrovert, and I thrive on human interaction. The isolation of the last nine months has been particularly difficult.

How do you break up the solitude?

I very judiciously go out, partly because we need to support our restaurants. I feel strongly that we need to eat out every meal if we can. I just had lunch at Le Bilboquet and dinner at Philippe Chow the other day.

You hosted a Zoom conversation last week for the Museum of Arts and Design.

MAD occupies a unique space in the ecosystems of museums in New York. That they work at the intersection of design and visual arts makes their mission especially important now. We know that art can heal.

You invited André Leon Talley to speak. Why?

André and I met at the Abyssinian Baptist Church in Harlem in 1995. We have often talked about what it is to be the only Black face in the room. What comes across in André's memoir is that he is vulnerable in ways in which the fashion elite often are not. As he told me, "every day I have to suit up to fight." That is the same in finance, technology and in other industries. In order to succeed we've had to, as André would put it, leave our Blackness at the door.

Which groups have been sidelined by the pandemic?

The community that has been most marginalized are people with disabilities. They often are an afterthought in policy, programming and hiring. You don't find many in leadership positions on boards. We have a lot of work to do to destigmatize disability.

Your optimism seems boundless. Where does it come from?

Winter is always tough on the mental health, but this January is harder. My partner David Beitzel died two years ago this month. Still, not a day goes by when I don't' think about how lucky and privileged I am. What I look forward to more than anything is being able to hug. I can't wait to luxuriate in the embrace of the people I love.

These interviews have been edited.

What the Inauguration Said About American Fashion Today - Vogue

Posted: 21 Jan 2021 09:07 AM PST

The visual impression left by an inauguration ceremony is usually defined by its sheer scale: hundreds of thousands of people swarming the National Mall, bombastic military parades, a glitzy lineup of pop star performers. But as Joe Biden was sworn in as president in the middle of a pandemic—two weeks after a domestic terrorist siege on the same building that served as a backdrop to the day's proceedings—the spectacle was understandably more muted. 

So where did the audience look for moments of visual interest? With the usual circus of Inauguration Day stripped back to its barest essentials, it was fashion that ended up under the microscope, sparking some of the most animated conversations on social media.

It makes a strange kind of sense. Over the past year, the events that would usually serve up eye-popping red carpet moments to entertain the most avid fashion obsessives—and also draw in more fair-weather followers—have been in short supply. Yes, it's very low down the list of urgent priorities for an administration urgently faced with tackling a recession, systemic racism, social inequity, and mass unemployment, but a carefully considered sartorial choice can still offer a glimmer of something uplifting.

On Inauguration Day there was, most notably, a return to the brand of "fashion diplomacy" that became Michelle Obama's calling card; instead of allying herself with a single designer, as with the first ladies of decades past, Obama cannily moved between brands that best represented either her objectives for each event, or the U.S. at large while traveling internationally. For the Bidens' first public outing as the first couple, this approach fell along more traditional lines: President Joe Biden wore a gray wool overcoat over a meticulously-cut, single-breasted navy blue Ralph Lauren suit, marking a clean break from the comically sloppy tailoring of Trump's suits before him. 

Dr. Jill Biden, meanwhile, wore a dress and coat in a sparkly cerulean tweed designed by Alexandra O'Neill of the New York label Markarian, before switching into a pair of Ruchi New York earrings and a double-breasted coat by Gabriela Hearst for evening, embroidered with the federal flowers of every U.S. state and territory. The latter felt like a particularly intentional choice, and not just for the piece's inclusive symbolism: Hearst has long made sustainability a central priority for her brand, and with her recent appointment as creative director of Chloé, is about to become one of America's most prominent exports on the global fashion stage.  

Inauguration Fashion: What Did It All Mean? - The New York Times

Posted: 20 Jan 2021 06:38 PM PST

They built back better. From the moment that President Joseph Biden and Vice President Kamala Harris arrived at the reflecting pool beside the Lincoln Memorial on Tuesday night to the final note of the virtual concert that capped the inaugural rites and celebrations, it was clear that they, and those around them, were going to use every tool at their disposal to underscore their message of fresh starts and racial justice, help and healing. They would use every celebrity performer, every ritual and, yes, every dress and coat and suit that could set off a search, spark a trend or capture an imagination.

Even though in the run-up to the transition of power, the message from both the presidential and vice-presidential camps was that they did not want to focus on clothes (even though the brands involved had been sworn to secrecy), it was impossible to ignore how the new administration used what they wore to tell a story in a moment when the eyes of the world were on them.

It was writ in the range of designers represented, in the rainbow of colors that could be seen through any screen, in the layers of not just garments (hey, it was chilly), but meaning. And in the way the choices worked together to create a mosaic that wasn't really about fashion at all, but rather about values and signifying intent.

The fashion was just the conduit.

Mr. Biden made his Inauguration Day entrance in a Ralph Lauren suit, coat and mask — in, that is to say, a wardrobe by a Bronx-born designer who built his reputation on channeling the mythology of the American dream. Who, indeed, embodied it himself; who has dressed the United States Olympic team, helped restore The Star-Spangled Banner and worked with administrations both Democratic and Republican over the years. Who represents bipartisan tradition and heritage and industry.

With it, the president wore a blue tie (not so much a bright Democratic blue as a "true blue" blue) that harmonized with the blue tweed coat, dress and mask worn by Dr. Jill Biden. Her outfit had been created by Markarian, a brand founded only three years ago by a young designer named Alexandra O'Neill. Based in New York's garment district, it was so fresh, it left even fashion folk scratching their heads.

Then there was Ms. Harris, who showcased the work of a different young Black independent designer in each of her inaugural appearances. If, as the first female vice president and the first Black woman vice president, she represents change and the future, so, too, did those choices. If she and Mr. Biden were planning to use their first 100 days to put a new stimulus plan into action, she was using her first actual day to put her wardrobe where their words were.

First came the camel coat worn to the Covid memorial service, with its multitude of pleats falling from a wave at the back. It was created by Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, a designer dedicated to putting Black Americans back at the center of the country's cultural fables. He was among the first designers to organize distribution of PPE at the beginning of the coronavirus pandemic, as well as to raise money to help small businesses crushed by lockdown.

Next was the bright purple coat and dress at the swearing-in designed by Christopher John Rogers, worn with Ms. Harris's signature pearls (these from the Puerto Rican jeweler Wilfredo Rosado) and the politico's little flag pin. Born in Louisiana, based in New York, and still in his 20s, Mr. Rogers has a penchant for combining old-time dressmaker detailing with high-octane glamour. And finally, for the evening, there was the black sequined dress under a tuxedo coat by Sergio Hudson, a designer working and manufacturing in Ms. Harris's home state of California.

So it went. There were numerous striking style moments: the red, white and blue celebrity troika of Lady Gaga in a giant Schiaparelli ball gown, Jennifer Lopez in snowy Chanel and Garth Brooks in jeans; the sunshine yellow Prada coat of Amanda Gorman, the youth poet laureate; Senator Bernie Sanders' viral mittens. But most striking of all was the ubiquity of purple, which turned out to be practically the signature color of the inauguration.

Perhaps because it combines the red and blue of recent political schism into a unified whole (the theme of inauguration was, after all, "America United'). Perhaps because, along with white, it was one of the colors of the suffragists, and to wear it was to acknowledge the fulfillment of their dream embodied by Ms. Harris. Or perhaps because, as the National Woman's Party (the original suffragist organization) wrote in a 1913 newsletter, "Purple is the color of loyalty, constancy to purpose, unswerving steadfastness to a cause."

Dr. Jill Biden wore purple to the Covid memorial service — a purple coat and dress and mask from Jonathan Cohen, a next generation independent designer with a focus on sustainability, another Biden priority. And on Wednesday, it was also worn by Mrs. Clinton (her grape pantsuit was another Ralph Lauren) as well as Michelle Obama, whose wide plum trousers belted with a gold buckle, coordinated turtleneck and sweeping greatcoat, all also by Sergio Hudson, called to mind a sort of soignée superhero.

This was more than a restoration of norms, after Melania Trump had effectively trampled on the classic support-American-business-by-wearing-American practice of first ladies past. (Mrs. Trump even left the White House in a symphony of European luxury labels: Chanel jacket, Dolce & Gabbana dress, Hermès bag.) It was an acknowledgment that when it comes to fashion and politics, it's not just about the first lady or even the first spouse, but everyone in the public eye. It's not just about made in America, but morality in America. They saw tradition, and raised it one.

Kamala Harris’s Inauguration Outfit and More Fashion Diplomacy From Inauguration Day - Vanity Fair

Posted: 20 Jan 2021 07:38 AM PST

With a dramatically reduced crowd, beefed-up security, and a pandemic-era sense of solemnity, the inauguration of President Joe Biden and Vice President Kamala Harris was far from traditional. But as one of the largest-scale events to happen in Washington, D.C., since the pandemic began, it was also a prime opportunity for displays of fashion diplomacy, from the designers chosen by Harris and First Lady Jill Biden to the symbolic accessories worn by the lawmakers and speakers in attendance. Ahead, the must-see looks and moments from the first day of the Biden administration. 

Joe Biden and Jill Biden

Alex Wong/Getty Images.

For a church service at St. Matthew on inauguration morning as well as the ceremony itself, Joe Biden wore a custom blue suit by iconic American designer Ralph Lauren, who made the suit, tie, and overcoat in the same fabric as his mask. 

Original sketch of Jill Biden's Markarian coat and dress. Courtesy of Markarian. 

Incoming First Lady Jill Biden wore an ocean blue wool tweed coat and dress by Alexandra O'Neill, who founded her label Markarian in 2017. The label is sustainability-minded, with all clothing made-to-order to reduce waste, and is named for "a particularly radiant grouping of galaxies." Markarian has also been worn by the likes of Kerry Washington, Laura Dern, Lizzo, and other celebrities. 

Handout/Getty

For the Celebrating America primetime special that aired Wednesday night, Dr. Jill Biden changed into a custom gown and accompanying coat by her friend Gabriela Hearst. According to the White House press office, the dress features "embroidery reflecting all of the state flowers of the United States and territories and the District of Columbia, in a purposeful gesture signaling the importance of national unity."

Kamala Harris and Doug Emhoff

Alex Wong/Getty Images.

The 5th Annual Hearts on Your Sleeve Jeff Highlander Benefit Fashion Show goes virtual - NMLiving

Posted: 21 Jan 2021 02:57 PM PST

Community

The ALS Association is the only national not-for-profit health organization dedicated solely to the fight against ALS. The ALS Association covers all the bases — research, patient and community services, public education, and advocacy — in providing help and hope to those facing the disease. The New Mexico Chapter was founded in 1999 by a small group of passionate individuals touched by ALS to serve the needs of those living with Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis and their families.

The ALS Association (National Office and the New Mexico Chapter) operates under a shared mission: to help people living with Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis and leave no stone unturned to search for a cure.

Join the ALS Association New Mexico Chapter for The 5th Annual Hearts on Your Sleeve Jeff Highlander Benefit Fashion Show. As we continue to slow the spread and battle the pandemic, the ALS Association New Mexico Chapter has shifted their annual fashion show to a virtual fashion fundraising extravaganza. Small groups can watch their streamed Fashion Show from the comfort of their homes. Each home will get hand-delivered food from M'tucci's Italian and receive specialty cocktails from Tito's Handmade Vodka and wine from Noble Wines. To purchase tickets, head to their website.
Tags:

Yorum Gönder

0 Yorumlar